Sailboats USA 🇺🇸 🇨🇦

Modern High-Holding Anchors

• Spade Anchor — consistently rates at or near the top in independent holding tests (Good Old Boat, Practical Sailor, SAIL Magazine); stainless or galvanized; rolls upright quickly on first set; excellent in sand, mud, and grass
• Rocna — popular cruising anchor; excellent holding; distinctive roll bar keeps the anchor oriented for setting; New Zealand-designed; widely used by US cruisers
• Mantus — Sarasota, FL — made in USA; folding design for easy storage; excellent holding tests; stainless or galvanized; competitive pricing
• Manson Supreme — popular alternative to Rocna; good holding; competitive price
• Danforth / Fortress — aluminum lightweight; exceptional holding in sand and soft mud; ideal as a kedge anchor or second hook; not a primary anchor — does not reset well if wind shifts significantly

Chain & Rode

• Acco Chain — made in USA; G4 and BBB anchor chain; reliable domestic manufacturer
• BBB (3B) chain: Larger links; works with most manual windlasses; traditional choice for sailboats
• G4 (High Test) chain: Smaller links, higher strength per weight; preferred for electric windlasses; lighter for the same strength
• Chain sizing: 5/16″ G4 for boats under 35 ft; 3/8″ G4 for 35–50 ft
• All-chain vs. rope-chain combination: All-chain is standard for serious cruising; a rope-chain combination (30–50 ft chain + nylon rode) is lighter and acceptable for daysailing and coastal use
• Replace chain when 10–20% of links show measurable wear (stretch); inspect annually

Anchor Sizing Guide

• Boats under 30 ft: 15–20 lb anchor; 150–200 ft rode/chain
• Boats 30–38 ft: 25–35 lb anchor; 200–250 ft rode/chain
• Boats 38–45 ft: 35–45 lb anchor; 250–300 ft rode/chain
• Boats 45–50 ft: 45–60 lb anchor; 300 ft rode/chain
• When in doubt, go one size up — an oversized anchor does nothing but provide extra security
• A second (kedge) anchor is strongly recommended for any offshore or extended cruising; Fortress FX-16 or Danforth 22S in aluminum

Anchor Snubber

• A snubber is a length of nylon rope (not chain) attached to the anchor chain at the bow — it absorbs shock loads and protects your windlass from jerking
• 15–25 ft of 5/8″ three-strand nylon with a chain hook
• Always use a snubber when anchored — your bow fitting and windlass are not designed for the shock loads of waves without it
• Defender — Anchor Snubbers

Electric Windlass Brands

• Lewmar — V700, V1000, V2000; the most common brand on US production sailboats; good reliability; easy to service; anchor rollers and accessories available
• Maxwell — New Zealand; HRC and VWC series; excellent offshore reputation; popular on cruising boats worldwide
• Lofrans — Italian; Tigres, Kobra, and Project series; popular on European boats; good quality
• Quick (GOIOT) — Italian; Genius series; competitive pricing; good for cruising boats

Windlass Installation & Maintenance

• Windlasses draw 50–100 amps during operation — run dedicated heavy-gauge wire (2/0 AWG for most electric windlasses) directly from the battery bank with an appropriately rated fuse or circuit breaker at the battery
• A foot switch at the bow and a remote at the helm are both useful — install both if possible
• Never use the windlass motor to break the anchor free — motor forward instead to reduce chain tension, then windlass in the slack
• Flush the wildcat with fresh water after every use in salt water
• Grease the shaft annually with waterproof grease
• Most windlass failures are electrical — check connections and fuse first

Scope — The Most Important Variable

• Scope is the ratio of rode paid out to the depth of water (measured from the bow roller, not the surface)
• Minimum for light conditions: 5:1 scope
• Standard for overnight: 7:1 scope
• Heavy weather / exposed anchorage: 10:1 scope
• Example: anchoring in 10 ft of water with 5 ft of freeboard = 15 ft total depth from bow roller; for 7:1 scope, pay out 105 ft of chain
• All-chain rode allows less scope than rope-chain because chain sags to the bottom and provides a horizontal pull at the anchor — 5:1 is adequate all-chain where 7:1 is needed for rope-chain

Setting the Anchor

• Power slowly astern while paying out chain; let the anchor settle before loading it
• Once scope is out, power in reverse at 1,000–1,500 RPM for 30 seconds — watch the chain for loading and watch a fixed reference for drag
• A properly set anchor will hold a 35 ft boat in 20 knots without any movement
• Mark your chain at 25, 50, 75, 100, and 150 ft with paint, zip ties, or chain counter — you cannot anchor properly without knowing how much chain you have out

Anchor Watch

• Set an anchor watch GPS alarm whenever anchored overnight; most chartplotters and phone apps (Anchor!, Garmin) have this feature
• Vesper Marine Cortex M1 has a GPS anchor watch with smartphone alerts — alerts even when your phone is not on the app
• Check your anchor bearing on two fixed objects when you first set and re-check periodically, especially if wind shifts or increases

Difficult Bottom Conditions

• Thick grass (Chesapeake, Florida): Try a Danforth — the thin flukes cut through; most other anchors plane over grass
• Hard sand / rock: Any good modern anchor; increase scope; add snubber
• Soft mud (Gulf Coast, some Chesapeake areas): All modern anchors work well; the Spade and Rocna are particularly good; set slowly and allow the anchor to bury deeply
• Kelp (Pacific Coast): Challenging; a Danforth often works better through kelp than bowl-style anchors

US Life Raft Manufacturers

• Givens Marine Survival — the most respected US life raft manufacturer for offshore sailors; their Ocean-class raft is used by the US Navy and USCG as well as offshore racers; made in USA; significant emphasis on stability in offshore conditions
• Winslow Life Raft — Rockledge, FL — made in USA; Super-Light series popular with offshore sailors; competitive quality and service
• Survival Products — Florida; US manufacturer; coastal and offshore class rafts

International Brands

• Viking Life-Saving Equipment — Danish; dominant offshore racing market; SOLAS and recreational models; serviced nationwide at certified stations
• Revere Survival — US-distributed; OceanStar series; competitive pricing
• Switlik — Trenton, NJ — made in USA; offshore class

Life Raft Essentials

• Coastal vs. Offshore class: Coastal rafts are lighter and less equipped; offshore rafts include a canopy, ballast bags, double floor, and a full SOLAS-equivalent equipment pack. For any offshore passage, use an offshore-class raft.
• 4-person minimum: Always buy a raft rated for more than your crew — a 4-person raft for a 2-person crew; a 6-person for a 4-person crew. Life raft ratings are optimistic.
• Valise vs. canister: Canister stores better on deck; valise is lighter and can be stored below. Both are appropriate; deck-mounted canister with float-free cradle is safest.
• Service interval: 3 years for most manufacturers' recommendations; ISAF offshore rules often require 3-year service or annual inspection. Find a certified service station and follow the schedule — a life raft that fails to inflate is worse than useless.
• Register with the manufacturer for recall and service notifications

Beacon Manufacturers

• ACR Electronics — Hollywood, FL — made in USA; GlobalFix Pro EPIRB and ResQLink PLB series; the market leader in the US; GPS-integrated models locate within 100 meters; excellent battery life; compliant with all current FCC and international standards
• Ocean Signal — UK; RescueME series; smaller form factor; good offshore reputation; growing US market presence
• McMurdo — established brand; SmartFind series; used on commercial and recreational vessels

EPIRB vs. PLB — Which Do You Need?

• EPIRB: Vessel-mounted; can auto-activate (float-free) if the boat sinks while crew is below; mounted in a bracket near the companionway or on deck; required for offshore sailing (ISAF Category 1 and 2 races require an EPIRB); signals for 48+ hours
• PLB: Personal; worn on lifejacket or stored in pocket; manually activated; shorter battery life (24 hours); must be registered to an individual; every offshore crew member should carry one
• Best practice: One vessel EPIRB mounted in a float-free bracket + one PLB per crew member = maximum coverage

Registration & Maintenance

• Register your EPIRB/PLB: Free registration at beaconregistration.noaa.gov — an unregistered beacon causes massive SAR problems; rescuers cannot identify you without registration
• Update your registration whenever you change boats, crew, or contact information
• Test the beacon using the built-in self-test function (does NOT transmit to satellites) on the first of every month
• Battery must be replaced on the date stamped on the battery; a beacon with an expired battery may not work
• Hydrostatic release on float-free EPIRBs must be replaced on schedule (typically 2 years) — it is the mechanism that releases the bracket underwater

AIS EPIRB / MOB Devices

• ACR MOBi — personal MOB AIS and DSC device; alerts other AIS-equipped vessels immediately; excellent for crew safety offshore
• Ocean Signal MOB1 — crew overboard beacon; AIS MOB signal plus DSC distress; activates on water contact

Inflatable PFD Manufacturers

• Mustang Survival — Vancouver, BC / US distribution; Khimera and Catalyst lines; excellent quality; made in North America; auto-inflate and manual inflate models; widely used by US Coast Guard and professional mariners
• Stearns / SOSPenders — Dayton, TN — made in USA; inflatable and foam PFDs; good value; widely available
• Spinlock — UK; Deckvest series; the choice of offshore racers; 170N and 275N models; superior harness integration; comfortable for extended wear
• Crewsaver / Survitec — UK; offshore-rated PFDs; SOLAS-compliant; used on commercial vessels and offshore races

PFD Types

• Type I (Offshore Life Preserver): Highest buoyancy (22 lbs); will turn an unconscious wearer face-up; required in commercial and offshore ISAF categories; bulky to wear
• Type II (Near-Shore Buoyant Vest): 15.5 lbs buoyancy; may turn unconscious wearer face-up in calm water; adequate for inshore daysailing in protected waters
• Type III (Flotation Aid): 15.5 lbs; will NOT reliably turn unconscious wearer face-up; comfortable; appropriate for daysailing with immediate rescue available
• Inflatable PFDs: When inflated, provide 35–275 N (8–62 lbs) buoyancy; most comfortable for extended wear; require care and annual service

PFD Harness & Tether System

• Offshore sailing requires a combined PFD and safety harness system — the tether clips to jacklines running fore-and-aft; keeps you on the boat even if you fall overboard
• Tethers should be no longer than 6 ft (long tether = you can still end up in the water); 3 ft for strong conditions
• Jacklines: 1-inch tubular webbing or spectra jackline tape run from bow to stern; attach on deck eyes; flat webbing keeps your foot from rolling off the jackline
• Rule: clip in before you go on deck at night; clip in before conditions deteriorate; don't wait until you "need to"
• Spinlock — best harness and tether systems for offshore sailors; 2-clip tether allows you to move forward and back without unclipping

PFD Service

• Inspect inflatable PFDs annually: check oral tube, cylinder for corrosion, arming mechanism expiration date, bladder for leaks (oral inflate and leave overnight)
• Rearm cylinders according to manufacturer schedule (typically every 3 years or immediately after any activation)
• Store PFDs out of UV when not in use; UV degrades bladder material

MOB Recovery Systems

• LifeSling — the standard MOB rescue system for offshore and coastal sailing; horseshoe buoy connected to 125 ft of floating line; throw to victim, tow to boat, hoist aboard; required in many offshore racing classes
• Ocean Signal MOB1 — AIS and DSC crew overboard beacon worn on PFD; activates on water contact; alerts all nearby AIS vessels and activates DSC distress on your VHF radio simultaneously
• ACR MOBi — AIS MOB personal device; immediate position broadcast to AIS receivers
• Traditional horseshoe buoy with drogue, strobe, and flag on a stern bracket — required by USCG on many documented vessels; standard equipment on cruising boats

MOB Procedure Basics

• Immediate actions: Shout "man overboard," throw a life ring with 100 ft of line immediately, designate one crew member to keep eyes on the person — never look away
• Mark the position: Press MOB button on GPS/chartplotter; note the bearing and distance; GPS position is not exact — the person has drifted
• Get back quickly: In cold water (Pacific Northwest, North Atlantic), hypothermia can incapacitate in 15–30 minutes
• Practice: Run MOB drills with crew; throw a fender overboard and practice recovery in different conditions — dockside practice is very different from the real situation
• See the Boater Education page for MOB course recommendations

Bilge Pump Manufacturers

• Rule Industries — Gloucester, MA — made in USA; the standard for automatic electric bilge pumps on production sailboats; Rule 500 (500 gph), Rule 1100, Rule 2000; extremely common; parts widely available
• SHURflo — electric pumps; also makes excellent pressure water systems
• Jabsco — manual and electric; flexible impeller pumps also used for raw water engine cooling and deck wash
• Attwood — bilge pumps and accessories; good value; widely available

Bilge Pump System Requirements

• USCG minimum: One manual bilge pump accessible when the companionway is closed (or one electric automatic bilge pump)
• Best practice for coastal: One 500+ gph automatic electric (with float switch) + one manual Rule 25 hand pump (operable from cockpit through a deck fitting)
• Best practice for offshore: Two separate electric pumps (500 gph automatic + 1,500+ gph manually-switched) + one large manual pump (Rule 25 or equivalent, cockpit-accessible)
• Wire the electric bilge pump to always-on power (not a switched circuit) — the bilge fills whether the main switch is on or not
• Install a bilge pump alarm (high-water float switch) wired to a buzzer at the helm
• Inspect the float switch annually — they corrode and fail; a stuck-on float switch will drain your batteries

Fire Extinguishers

• USCG requirements: Boats under 26 ft: one B-I extinguisher; 26–40 ft: two B-I or one B-II; 40–65 ft: three B-I or one B-II plus one B-I
• Marine fire extinguishers must be USCG-approved (UL listed for marine use)
• Fixed engine room suppression: Highly recommended on any diesel auxiliary; automatic Halon or FM-200 system activates if fire is detected; standard on offshore racing boats
• Inspect extinguishers annually; replace if pressure gauge is below the green zone; recharge within 6 years regardless of use
• Locate one extinguisher at the helm accessible from the cockpit, and one at the entrance to the engine compartment

Fire Prevention

• Fuel system: inspect every fuel hose annually for cracking, hardening, and softness; replace on a 10-year schedule; double-clamp all hose connections
• Propane: use a dedicated propane locker that drains overboard (propane is heavier than air — it sinks to the bilge and will explode); install a propane solenoid shutoff at the tank and always close it when the stove is not in use
• Electrical: marine-grade tinned wire, properly fused; a shorted wire in the bilge area is the most common cause of boat fires
• Lithium batteries: see the S/V Theros Battery Fire case study in the Captain's Locker for a real-world account of a lithium fire at sea
• Smoke detectors: install one in the main cabin and one in the engine room; replace batteries annually; use marine-grade or sealed units